At Graphpaper, the focus is not on a once-in-a-while special outfit you pull out for occasions,
but on everyday clothes you reach for without thinking, aiming for "distinctive normality".
And perhaps the ultimate form of that is underwear.
It's something you need daily - and if it looks or feels wrong,
the stress is greater than with any other garment.
That's why a few years ago, Minami decided: we need underwear we can truly trust - universally comfortable, dependable, and beautifully made.
After years of trial and error, the result is finally here.
Graphpaper's new underwear, created with confidence and care.
Photographer: Junpei Fukushi
Text: Rui Konno
The material we finally arrived at:
American Sea Island Cotton.
Carded American Sea Island Cotton (i.e. the pre-yarn stage). Even here, you can already see its natural sheen.
―Today we're talking about your newly released underwear - an even more everyday-oriented part of the wardrobe than before.
Minami: Yeah. I think it took around five years from when I first said, "Let's make the ultimate underwear." We approached around 4 factories, got presentations, had sample fabrics knitted… but none of them felt right.
―What specifically didn't satisfy you?
Minami: Honestly, everything. We always start from the material, and if that isn't right, nothing else can be. Deciding on the yarn and the knitting structure was incredibly difficult. I was thinking we'd use something top-tier like Sea Island Cotton, but underwear made from it already exists. We didn't want to just make another one — the goal was to create something new, through the knitting, composition, everything. We finally reached a level that felt right - something worth releasing.
―Graphpaper has made tank tops before, but they weren't carry-over items. Did you feel room for improvement?
Minami: Every season we'd make something thinking we'd continue it - but each time something bothered me. We compared knit swatches, tried SUVIN, other cottons, even ultra-long staple yarns we'd never heard of. And eventually, we arrived at American Sea Island Cotton.
―Wait, I thought Sea Island Cotton came from…
Production (Takeuchi): The West Indies. Originally, Sea Island Cotton was grown in the U.S. too, but in the 1920s it was wiped out by pests. For nearly a century, it survived only in the West Indies, protected by an Association.
American Sea Island Cotton yarn after spinning.
―That's a surprising history.
Takeuchi: Around the 2000s, a project started - "Let's grow it in America again." Redevelopment progressed, and only in the past two or 3 years has it finally become available in Japan.
Minami: A kind of re-import, right? The fabric knitted from it is incredibly soft, and the neck binders - which often get stiff - stay supple. But once the yarn is decided, the knitting still has to be right.
―I assumed once the material was set, it would move faster.
Minami: Not at all - it was a cycle of "This isn't right," "Totally wrong." We tested plain stitch, smooth knits… eventually landing on rib knit as the best for men's underwear. At first, we tried a "mirror"-style knit thinking we'd never seen Sea Island used that way.
―It's that feel of panel ribbing, right? Rare to see it in premium materials.
Minami: Exactly. But because the yarn was too good, it didn't fluff - the ridges wouldn't show. The concept was interesting, but since we'd already decided the yarn was non-negotiable, we abandoned it.
―So that uneven texture only works with rougher cottons.
Minami: Yeah, and probably with thicker yarn counts too. In the end, rib knitting was best for American Sea Island - the original cotton is soft, so ribbing allows proper loft.
Something that makes you think "wow"
the moment you touch it.
―There's also a T-shirt in the lineup. You didn't choose plain stitch for it either?
Minami: I've bought and tested tons of high-end underwear across brands. Some used Sea Island jersey - but jersey doesn't fit the body well. Too much tight fit isn't good either, but too loose fit isn't great for underwear. Especially with bottoms - jersey boxers can conversely feel like you're wearing trunks. That looseness adds freedom, but…
―Freedom… probably less stuffy?
Minami: Right. But with good yarn, stuffiness isn't an issue - and rib actually has better breathability. More importantly, that first touch matters. Jersey stitch is smooth and minimal, while rib has a cushiony, soft touch that surprises you instantly. We had it knitted in Wakayama, at a factory skilled in tubular knitting that we always work with. Since underwear doesn't need the oversized cut of pack tees, we worked together with them to see what small-diameter machines could create. The yarn is soft, so we knit with minimal tension.
―What do you value most in underwear?
Minami: Feel against the skin. I've tested everything from cheap to premium - good cotton simply feels better and lasts longer. I'm rough with care - I throw underwear straight into the dryer - but my Sea Island pieces from Sunspel have lasted for years.
―Because you wear underwear every day, you really notice differences.
Minami: Yes. Actually, I originally only wanted to make bottoms — I've never worn tank tops or tees as base layers myself. But as you get older, you start to worry more about sweat, and an inner layer starts to feel necessary (laughs). I don't know why, but it's comforting. That's how the tops came into the picture.
―So that led to the matching set T-shirt and tank top.
Minami: Exactly. Design-wise, as always the neckline is key. On tank tops, I hate when the neck is too open - but too high and it looks like a women's sleeveless top. We aimed for the perfect in-between.
―It's subtly deep for a tank top, now that I look closely.
Minami: The point is that it isn't too deep to sit under a shirt. You're welcome to wear it under a T-shirt, of course, but it was made to go under a shirt - just a hint visible when you open the first button. If it doesn't show at all, it feels like you're wearing a shirt on bare skin, and I'm not keen on that. All Graphpaper underwear is meant to be worn under Graphpaper clothing. The T-shirt sleeve length also avoids extremes - not too short, not too long.
If it needed a logo,
we wouldn't make it.
―So balance was important.
Minami: Balance - and comfort above all. I think this is something people will touch and immediately think, "Oh, this is good." Knitted on an old sinker machine, the fabric isn't overly dense. Ventilation is crucial for good underwear - the tank and tee sit close to the skin, but heat and moisture escape properly. Achieving that with natural fibers instead of synthetics was a major objective, and I think we succeeded. Because the yarn and knit match perfectly, it doesn't feel clammy. The functionality is strong for natural fiber underwear. It's really good. The underpants almost feel like wearing nothing.
―That's almost alarming (laughs).
Minami: Right - a secure, snug feeling, but light. Please add a disclaimer that this is just my personal opinion though (laughs).
―(Laughs) The boxer inseam is longer than many modern ones.
Minami: I dislike short ones - but too long isn't good either. The balance is based on U.S. military underwear, which felt ideal. It also needed to stay authentic, so we avoided unnecessary gimmicks.
―But the one unconventional point - there's no front fly.
Minami: None. I just don't see the point. I'm not sure I could be friends with someone who uses it (laughs). I prefer the type of person who just pulls them down entirely - that honesty. "What are you, a child?"
―(Laughs) They do exist. Forgive me for the frankness, but did you ever consider putting a "Graphpaper" logo on the waistband?
Minami: Absolutely not. If we needed to put our logo there, we wouldn't make the underpants. We aren't interested in showing off branding - the priority is comfort and simplicity. The waistband on these boxer briefs is covered in fabric - many premium brands leave the elastic exposed inside, but that band is uncomfortable, and that's not what should be touching your skin.
Discreet internal logo only. Fabric-encased waistband for improved comfort and a refined minimal look.
Tanks and T-shirts are the same - only a small inner neck print.
―True, the inside matters more than the outside with underwear.
Minami: Underwear isn't meant to be seen when you're dressed. It should give you personal satisfaction (laughs). Something that makes you think "Oh, wow" when you put it on in the morning. The fabric is completely different from anything else, so I think you'll come back to it. I'm planning to throw away all my other underwear and just keep these.